havent watched this in a while, love coming back to this!!

The boilers are a single-flue design that is VERY safe (I have occasionally accidentally run boilers dry - not recommended, but no ill effects as long as the fire is killed shortly after). The worst I've done to ties is melt a few plastic ones on the steam-up siding where i regularly blow the boiler down.

MAAN! When I would be building the garden railroad, I'd better go with live steam engine! It looks so amazing and unique! Woun't need to hassle with conductivity on the track. Love it!

well done, i like the 1/8th scale the best still, but i am currently working on a 1/12th scale pacific at school. Lots of work, lots of fun. I might just have to get one of these once I get my aunts G scale Railroad in at her house.

1.) track is G-gauge, mostly Aristo-Craft brass rail, with LGB R3 & R5 switches.

Thanks for posting, I hope my class a runs as well!

That I really couldn't tell you for certain; I've been to Cass, but was unaware of their use of soybean oil. I'd be reluctant to try it, as the steam passages are VERY tiny, & could possibly be clogged by it. A 6-0z. bottle of steam oil (@ $7) lasts me typically for several MONTHS of running, so it's not a great expense; finding a cheap source of butane fuel is a bigger challenge! ;)

Thanks Tom for getting back

no problem buddy! I look forward to all the new stuff on your wonderful railroad! Post some pics on MLS for us! :)

I may eventually, but most of what you see here is also applicable to the Ruby's. Only differences are lack of water (& maybe pressure) gauge on the Ruby & different oil points on the valve gear. Adding a Goodall valve to the Ruby (so you can add water while under steam) is a good idea, as the Ruby usually seems to run out of water before fuel. If a Ruby stops while running with the fire roaring away, the boiler has probably run dry - kill the fire immediately & allow it to cool slowly.

thanks for sending back

@bcschmerker - Thanks for the complements. ;) You COULD do independent throttle control (I did when I RC'd my Ruby), but both of the Shay's I've converted to RC run slowly enough (even at full throttle with a full head of steam) that it really isn't necessary - my single-servo control combines BOTH speed & direction just by controlling the reversing valve (the full-scale practice of "hooking-up" the reverse lever is where I got the idea). These models do NOT have working cylinder cocks.

Vielen Dank für das sehr hilfreiche Video.